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Libya Press
On Monday morning, Schiaparelli opened Paris Haute Couture Week for Fall/Winter 2026-2027 with a collection that reaffirmed why the house remains fashion's most daring creative laboratory. Creative director Daniel Roseberry presented 32 looks that blurred the line between wearable art and high fashion, delivering one of the strongest couture presentations of the season.
The show, held at the brand's Place Vendôme salon, drew a front row that included Zendaya, Cate Blanchett, and Libyan influencer Noor El-Gaddafi — marking the house's growing cultural reach across North Africa and the Middle East.
Roseberry drew heavily from the house's surrealist DNA, established by founder Elsa Schiaparelli in the 1930s. The collection featured trompe-l'œil effects, unexpected silhouettes, and accessories that challenged conventional form. A black wool coat appeared to melt off the shoulders. Gold jewelry took the shape of human ribs and spinal columns. Dresses featured embroidered eyes and lips — motifs recalling Salvador Dalí's collaborations with the house founder.
"Couture is about making the impossible possible through technique," Roseberry said in the show notes. "Surrealism is not just a visual style for us — it asks what fashion can become when we stop fearing the unexpected."
Behind the audacious visuals, the collection showcased extraordinary technical mastery. A single embroidered jacket required over 800 hours of handwork by artisans at the Lemarié ateliers. Crystal-encrusted gowns used three-dimensional embroidery techniques that created the illusion of movement — flowers that seemed to bloom as the model walked, feathers that floated independently of the fabric.
The tailoring was equally impressive. Sharp-shouldered blazers in midnight blue, sculpted waistcoats in pearl-white silk, and floor-sweeping capes in crimson velvet demonstrated Roseberry's command of classic couture construction. Each piece balanced avant-garde emotion with the structural precision that defines haute couture.
If the garments displayed Roseberry's technical discipline, the accessories revealed his playful imagination. Handbags shaped like anatomical hearts, oversized sunglasses with golden lashes, and shoes with surreal heel proportions drew gasps from the audience. The most talked-about piece was a necklace resembling a human spine in polished silver — a direct reference to Schiaparelli's 1937 "Skeleton Dress" and a statement on the body as fashion's ultimate architecture.
Schiaparelli's influence has grown significantly across the Arab world in recent seasons. The house's bold, sculptural silhouettes resonate with the region's love for statement dressing and couture-level craftsmanship. Libyan women, known for their refined fashion sense, have increasingly turned to houses like Schiaparelli for red carpet and special occasion dressing.
The presence of Libyan figures at the show signals a broader trend: North African fashion consumers are becoming key voices in the global couture conversation. With Libya's fashion scene growing through emerging designers and increased access to international fashion weeks, collections like this offer inspiration for a new generation.
Roseberry closed the show with a series of evening gowns in black, gold, and deep burgundy — each a masterclass in proportion and emotion. A black velvet dress with a single exaggerated sleeve. A gold lamé column gown that caught every light in the room. A blood-red silk taffeta gown with a sculpted neckline that defied gravity.
The final look — a bride dressed in ivory faille with a headpiece of golden thread — was both a tribute to traditional couture and a declaration that Schiaparelli is writing its own future.
In a fashion landscape often dominated by commercial caution, Schiaparelli's Fall/Winter 2026-2027 couture collection stands as a bold reminder that haute couture remains fashion's purest form of expression. When craftsmanship meets imagination, the ordinary becomes extraordinary.
— Libya Press / Fashion Desk